Breaking of Waves over a Steep Bottom Slope

Publication: ResearchPh.d. thesis

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The thesis deals with the wave breaking process of waves propagating over a steep submerged bottom slope. The amount of energy dissipated in the wave breaking process is focused upon. An extensive number of experimental tests (>400) using regular and irregular waves breaking over a simulated reef in the hydraulic laboratory are performed. Based on the experimental tests several formulae developed. Formulae  are capable of predicting the transmitted wave height and wave energy flux, respectively. Futhermore, a numerical wave model based on the extended Mild-Slope equation has been developed. The model is capable of generating progressive irregular waves. Wave breaking has been included using a modification of the Battjes and Janssen [1978] periodic bore approach. The results from this study be applicable in the design of coastal structures as submerged breakwaters or artificial reefs.
Original languageEnglish
Publication date2004
Place of publicationAalborg
PublisherHydraulics & Coastal Engineering Laboratory, Department of Civil Engineering, Aalborg University
Edition2
Number of pages162
StatePublished
NameSeries Paper
Number22
ISSN (print)0909-4296

Bibliographical note

PDF for print: 174 pp.

Keywords

  • Mild- Slope Equation, Wave Transformation, Radder and Dingemans Equation, Wave Model, Monochromatic Waves, Periodic Bore

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