We consider a massive MIMO system where the array at the access point reaches a dimension that is much larger than the array in current systems. Transitioning to an extremely large dimension and hence large number of antennas implies a need to scale up the multi-antenna processing while maintaining a reasonable computational complexity. In this paper, we study the receiver of such an extra-large scale MIMO (XL-MIMO) system. We propose to base the reception on Variational Message Passing (VMP). The motivation is that the complexity of VMP scales (almost) linearly with the number of antennas and number of users, hence enabling low-complexity reception in crowd scenarios. Furthermore, VMP adapts to the non-stationarities of the MIMO channel that appear due to the large dimension of the array. Through numerical results, we show significant performance improvement and computational complexity reduction compared to a zero-forcing receiver.