Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions

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Abstract

This paper presents initial results from an on-going study on the influence from wave nonlinearity on the wave height distribution in deep- and depth-limited nonlinear wave conditions. A fully nonlinear VOF model, IH-2VOF, is applied to model the propagation of irregular waves on a sloping sea bed from deep to shallow water, including the effects of wave breaking. Different wave nonlinearities are evaluated in the model and the effects of the wave nonlinearity, described by the so-called Ursell-number, on the wave height distributions along the sloping sea bed are evaluated. The widely used Battjes & Groenendijk (2000) shallow water wave height distribution is concluded in the present study to significantly underpredict the low-exceedance wave heights in case of very nonlinear waves. A modification of the Battjess & Groenendijk (2000) distribution is suggested in order to include the effects of wave nonlinearity.
OriginalsprogEngelsk
TitelCoastal Dynamics 2017 : Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2017
RedaktørerTroels Aagaard, Rolf Deigaard, David Fuhrman
ForlagCoastal Dynamics Conference
Publikationsdato2017
Sider377-388
Artikelnummer34
Kapitel5
StatusUdgivet - 2017
BegivenhedCoastal Dynamics 2017 - Helsingør, Danmark
Varighed: 12 jun. 201717 jun. 2017

Konference

KonferenceCoastal Dynamics 2017
Land/OmrådeDanmark
ByHelsingør
Periode12/06/201717/06/2017

Bibliografisk note

Cap. 5 – SURF ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS

Emneord

  • Depth-limited wave conditions
  • Wave nonlinearity
  • Ursell number
  • Wave height distribution

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