Lecture Notes for the Course in Water Wave Mechanics

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The present notes are written for the course in water wave mechanics given on the 7th semester of the education in civil engineering at Aalborg University. The prerequisites for the course are the course in fluid dynamics also given on the 7th semester and some basic mathematical and physical knowledge. The course is at the same time an introduction to the course in coastal hydraulics on the 8th semester. The notes cover the following five lectures:

1. Definitions. Governing equations and boundary conditions. Derivation of velocity potential for linear waves. Dispersion relationship.
2. Particle paths, velocities, accelerations, pressure variation, deep and shallow water waves, wave energy and group velocity.
3. Shoaling, refraction, diffraction and wave breaking.
4. Irregular waves. Time domain analysis of waves.
5. Wave spectra. Frequency domain analysis of waves.

The present notes are based on the following existing notes and books:

H.F.Burcharth: Bolgehydraulik, AaU (1991)
H.F.Burcharth og Torben Larsen: Noter i bolgehydraulik, AaU (1988).
Peter Frigaard and Tue Hald: Noter til kurset i bolgehydraulik, AaU (2004)
Zhou Liu and Peter Frigaard: Random Seas, AaU (1997)
Ib A.Svendsen and Ivar G.Jonsson: Hydrodynamics of Coastal Regions, Den private ingeniorfond, DtU.(1989).
Leo H. Holthuijsen: Waves in ocean and coastal waters, Cambridge University Press (2007).
Original languageEnglish
Place of PublicationAalborg
PublisherDepartment of Civil Engineering, Aalborg University
Number of pages116
Publication statusPublished - 2011
SeriesDCE Lecture notes


  • Waves
  • Hydrodynamic Equations
  • Boundary Conditions
  • Linear Wave Theory
  • Wave Energy

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