## Abstract

The present notes are written for the course in water wave mechanics given on the 7th semester of the education in civil engineering at Aalborg University. The prerequisites for the course are the course in fluid dynamics also given on the 7th semester and some basic mathematical and physical knowledge. The course is at the same time an introduction to the course in coastal hydraulics on the 8th semester. The notes cover the first four lectures of the course:

• Definitions. Governing equations and boundary conditions.

• Derivation of velocity potential for linear waves. Dispersion relationship Particle velocities and accelerations.

• Particle paths, pressure variation, deep and shallow water waves, wave energy and group velocity.

• Shoaling, refraction, diffraction and wave breaking.

The last part of the course is on analysis of irregular waves and was included in the first two editions of the present note but is now covered by the note of Frigaard et al. (2012).

The present notes are based on the following existing notes and books:

• H.F.Burcharth: Bølgehydraulik, AaU (1991)

• H.F.Burcharth og Torben Larsen: Noter i bølgehydraulik, AaU (1988).

• Peter Frigaard and Tue Hald: Noter til kurset i bølgehydraulik, AaU (2004)

• Ib A.Svendsen and Ivar G.Jonsson: Hydrodynamics of Coastal Regions, Den private ingeniørfond, DtU.(1989).

• Leo H. Holthuijsen: Waves in ocean and coastal waters, Cambridge University Press (2007).

• Definitions. Governing equations and boundary conditions.

• Derivation of velocity potential for linear waves. Dispersion relationship Particle velocities and accelerations.

• Particle paths, pressure variation, deep and shallow water waves, wave energy and group velocity.

• Shoaling, refraction, diffraction and wave breaking.

The last part of the course is on analysis of irregular waves and was included in the first two editions of the present note but is now covered by the note of Frigaard et al. (2012).

The present notes are based on the following existing notes and books:

• H.F.Burcharth: Bølgehydraulik, AaU (1991)

• H.F.Burcharth og Torben Larsen: Noter i bølgehydraulik, AaU (1988).

• Peter Frigaard and Tue Hald: Noter til kurset i bølgehydraulik, AaU (2004)

• Ib A.Svendsen and Ivar G.Jonsson: Hydrodynamics of Coastal Regions, Den private ingeniørfond, DtU.(1989).

• Leo H. Holthuijsen: Waves in ocean and coastal waters, Cambridge University Press (2007).

Original language | English |
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Place of Publication | Aalborg |
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Publisher | Department of Civil Engineering, Aalborg University |

Edition | 3 |

Number of pages | 72 |

Publication status | Published - 2014 |

Series | DCE Lecture notes |
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Number | 32 |

ISSN | 1901-7286 |

## Keywords

- Water waves
- Wave theory
- Irregular Waves
- Linear waves