Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions

Jørgen Harck Nørgaard; Thomas Lykke Andersen; Jannie Elkær Knudsen

Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions

Jørgen Harck Nørgaard, Thomas Lykke Andersen, Jannie Elkær Knudsen

Research output: Contribution to book/anthology/report/conference proceeding › Article in proceeding › Research › peer-review

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Abstract

This paper presents initial results from an on-going study on the influence from wave nonlinearity on the wave height distribution in deep- and depth-limited nonlinear wave conditions. A fully nonlinear VOF model, IH-2VOF, is applied to model the propagation of irregular waves on a sloping sea bed from deep to shallow water, including the effects of wave breaking. Different wave nonlinearities are evaluated in the model and the effects of the wave nonlinearity, described by the so-called Ursell-number, on the wave height distributions along the sloping sea bed are evaluated. The widely used Battjes & Groenendijk (2000) shallow water wave height distribution is concluded in the present study to significantly underpredict the low-exceedance wave heights in case of very nonlinear waves. A modification of the Battjess & Groenendijk (2000) distribution is suggested in order to include the effects of wave nonlinearity.

Original language	English
Title of host publication	Coastal Dynamics 2017 : Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2017
Editors	Troels Aagaard, Rolf Deigaard, David Fuhrman
Publisher	Coastal Dynamics Conference
Publication date	2017
Pages	377-388
Article number	34
Chapter	5
Publication status	Published - 2017
Event	Coastal Dynamics 2017 - Helsingør, Denmark Duration: 12 Jun 2017 → 17 Jun 2017

Conference

Conference	Coastal Dynamics 2017
Country/Territory	Denmark
City	Helsingør
Period	12/06/2017 → 17/06/2017

Bibliographical note

Cap. 5 – SURF ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS

Keywords

Depth-limited wave conditions
Wave nonlinearity
Ursell number
Wave height distribution

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http://coastaldynamics2017.dk/onewebmedia/034_N%2B%C2%A9rg%2B%C3%91rd.pdf

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Nørgaard, J. H., Andersen, T. L., & Knudsen, J. E. (2017). Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions. In T. Aagaard, R. Deigaard, & D. Fuhrman (Eds.), Coastal Dynamics 2017: Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2017 (pp. 377-388). Article 34 Coastal Dynamics Conference. http://coastaldynamics2017.dk/onewebmedia/034_N%2B%C2%A9rg%2B%C3%91rd.pdf

@inproceedings{b2b875bc3a274f468d4b0057170dec02,

title = "Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions",

abstract = "This paper presents initial results from an on-going study on the influence from wave nonlinearity on the wave height distribution in deep- and depth-limited nonlinear wave conditions. A fully nonlinear VOF model, IH-2VOF, is applied to model the propagation of irregular waves on a sloping sea bed from deep to shallow water, including the effects of wave breaking. Different wave nonlinearities are evaluated in the model and the effects of the wave nonlinearity, described by the so-called Ursell-number, on the wave height distributions along the sloping sea bed are evaluated. The widely used Battjes & Groenendijk (2000) shallow water wave height distribution is concluded in the present study to significantly underpredict the low-exceedance wave heights in case of very nonlinear waves. A modification of the Battjess & Groenendijk (2000) distribution is suggested in order to include the effects of wave nonlinearity.",

keywords = "Depth-limited wave conditions, Wave nonlinearity, Ursell number, Wave height distribution, Depth-limited wave conditions, Wave nonlinearity, Ursell number, Wave height distribution",

author = "N{\o}rgaard, {J{\o}rgen Harck} and Andersen, {Thomas Lykke} and Knudsen, {Jannie Elk{\ae}r}",

note = "Cap. 5 – SURF ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS; Coastal Dynamics 2017 ; Conference date: 12-06-2017 Through 17-06-2017",

year = "2017",

language = "English",

pages = "377--388",

editor = "Troels Aagaard and Rolf Deigaard and David Fuhrman",

booktitle = "Coastal Dynamics 2017",

publisher = "Coastal Dynamics Conference",

}

Nørgaard, JH , Andersen, TL & Knudsen, JE 2017, Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions. in T Aagaard, R Deigaard & D Fuhrman (eds), Coastal Dynamics 2017: Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2017., 34, Coastal Dynamics Conference, pp. 377-388, Coastal Dynamics 2017, Helsingør, Denmark, 12/06/2017. <http://coastaldynamics2017.dk/onewebmedia/034_N%2B%C2%A9rg%2B%C3%91rd.pdf>

Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions. / Nørgaard, Jørgen Harck ; Andersen, Thomas Lykke; Knudsen, Jannie Elkær.
Coastal Dynamics 2017: Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2017. ed. / Troels Aagaard; Rolf Deigaard; David Fuhrman. Coastal Dynamics Conference, 2017. p. 377-388 34.

Research output: Contribution to book/anthology/report/conference proceeding › Article in proceeding › Research › peer-review

TY - GEN

T1 - Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions

AU - Nørgaard, Jørgen Harck

AU - Andersen, Thomas Lykke

AU - Knudsen, Jannie Elkær

N1 - Cap. 5 – SURF ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS

PY - 2017

Y1 - 2017

N2 - This paper presents initial results from an on-going study on the influence from wave nonlinearity on the wave height distribution in deep- and depth-limited nonlinear wave conditions. A fully nonlinear VOF model, IH-2VOF, is applied to model the propagation of irregular waves on a sloping sea bed from deep to shallow water, including the effects of wave breaking. Different wave nonlinearities are evaluated in the model and the effects of the wave nonlinearity, described by the so-called Ursell-number, on the wave height distributions along the sloping sea bed are evaluated. The widely used Battjes & Groenendijk (2000) shallow water wave height distribution is concluded in the present study to significantly underpredict the low-exceedance wave heights in case of very nonlinear waves. A modification of the Battjess & Groenendijk (2000) distribution is suggested in order to include the effects of wave nonlinearity.

AB - This paper presents initial results from an on-going study on the influence from wave nonlinearity on the wave height distribution in deep- and depth-limited nonlinear wave conditions. A fully nonlinear VOF model, IH-2VOF, is applied to model the propagation of irregular waves on a sloping sea bed from deep to shallow water, including the effects of wave breaking. Different wave nonlinearities are evaluated in the model and the effects of the wave nonlinearity, described by the so-called Ursell-number, on the wave height distributions along the sloping sea bed are evaluated. The widely used Battjes & Groenendijk (2000) shallow water wave height distribution is concluded in the present study to significantly underpredict the low-exceedance wave heights in case of very nonlinear waves. A modification of the Battjess & Groenendijk (2000) distribution is suggested in order to include the effects of wave nonlinearity.

KW - Depth-limited wave conditions

KW - Wave nonlinearity

KW - Ursell number

KW - Wave height distribution

KW - Depth-limited wave conditions

KW - Wave nonlinearity

KW - Ursell number

KW - Wave height distribution

M3 - Article in proceeding

SP - 377

EP - 388

BT - Coastal Dynamics 2017

A2 - Aagaard, Troels

A2 - Deigaard, Rolf

A2 - Fuhrman, David

PB - Coastal Dynamics Conference

T2 - Coastal Dynamics 2017

Y2 - 12 June 2017 through 17 June 2017

ER -

Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions

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Bibliographical note

Keywords

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