Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions

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Abstract

This paper presents initial results from an on-going study on the influence from wave nonlinearity on the wave height distribution in deep- and depth-limited nonlinear wave conditions. A fully nonlinear VOF model, IH-2VOF, is applied to model the propagation of irregular waves on a sloping sea bed from deep to shallow water, including the effects of wave breaking. Different wave nonlinearities are evaluated in the model and the effects of the wave nonlinearity, described by the so-called Ursell-number, on the wave height distributions along the sloping sea bed are evaluated. The widely used Battjes & Groenendijk (2000) shallow water wave height distribution is concluded in the present study to significantly underpredict the low-exceedance wave heights in case of very nonlinear waves. A modification of the Battjess & Groenendijk (2000) distribution is suggested in order to include the effects of wave nonlinearity.
Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationCoastal Dynamics 2017 : Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2017
EditorsTroels Aagaard, Rolf Deigaard, David Fuhrman
PublisherCoastal Dynamics Conference
Publication date2017
Pages377-388
Article number34
Chapter5
Publication statusPublished - 2017
EventCoastal Dynamics 2017 - Helsingør, Denmark
Duration: 12 Jun 201717 Jun 2017

Conference

ConferenceCoastal Dynamics 2017
CountryDenmark
CityHelsingør
Period12/06/201717/06/2017

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Bibliographical note

Cap. 5 – SURF ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS

Keywords

  • Depth-limited wave conditions
  • Wave nonlinearity
  • Ursell number
  • Wave height distribution

Cite this

Nørgaard, J. H., Andersen, T. L., & Knudsen, J. E. (2017). Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Swell Waves in Deep an Depth-Limited Wave Conditions. In T. Aagaard, R. Deigaard, & D. Fuhrman (Eds.), Coastal Dynamics 2017: Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2017 (pp. 377-388). [34] Coastal Dynamics Conference. http://coastaldynamics2017.dk/onewebmedia/034_N%2B%C2%A9rg%2B%C3%91rd.pdf